Choquequirao Travel Guide

Your Guide to Trekking Choquequirao

High above the wild Apurímac River, west of Cusco (at about 3,400m / 11,150 feet), the Incas built a huge city called Choquequirao. Much of it is still hidden by jungle. Its name means “Cradle of Gold,” and it sits halfway up a mountain in the Vilcabamba mountain range (with peaks reaching over 6,100m / 20,000 feet). Locals sometimes call it Machu Picchu’s sister. Getting there isn’t easy; you have to hike, and it takes a lot of stamina, especially if you’re thinking of doing the Choquequirao trek on your own.

Ready for adventure? Let’s go! Here’s what you need to know.

Basic Trek Facts

This info is based on the popular 4-day route:

• How High You Get: The ruins themselves, Choquequirao (around 3,050m / 10,000 feet), are the highest point.
• Where to Start: The trailhead at Capuliyoc is about 2,900m / 9,500 feet.
• Distance: Roughly 64km (40 miles) round trip.
• Difficulty Level: It’s tough. Seriously tough (Grade 5). Steep ups and downs.
• Permits: You need a ticket, costs around S/. 60 (about $15 USD) per adult.
• Mules and Muleteers: These guys get paid in soles (bring cash!). It’s roughly S/. 45 per day for the arriero (muleteer) and S/. 40 per day for each mule.

Getting There & Around Costs (Approximate)

Good to Know Before You Go

• Heads up: at Santa Rosa campsite (down low, around 2,100m / 6,900 feet) it’s tents only – no buildings or hostels.
• Need Wi-Fi? You can sometimes get it at hospedajes (small guesthouses) in Chikiska (around 1,930m / 6,330 feet) and Maranpata (up high, near 2,900m / 9,500 feet). Costs about 10 soles per hour.
• There are basic hostels in Capuliyoc, Chikiska, and Maranpata.
• Planning to stay in Cachora town (around 2,870m / 9,400 feet) before or after? Book your room ahead. Some places might be closed or full.

What are the Choquequirao ruins like?

It looks like the Incas first flattened the top of the mountain to make the main plaza. Then they built everything else, like terraces and buildings, clinging to the steep slopes. The style is a bit different from Machu Picchu, maybe simpler or rougher. But the super cool thing you have to see is the llama section. They used special white stones to make llama designs right on the terrace walls, like a whole herd going up. It’s unique; you won’t see it anywhere else.

Where exactly is Choquequirao?

It’s perched high on a mountainside overlooking the deep Apurímac River canyon, way up in the Vilcabamba mountains. Officially, it’s in the La Convención province, about 160 km (100 miles) west of Cusco city.

How do you get there?

Okay, starting from Cusco:

1. Head to the main bus station (Terminal Terrestre).
2. Hop on a bus heading towards Abancay (a city further down, around 2,530m / 8,300 feet). Make sure to tell the driver you want to get off at “Ramal de Cachora” (the turn-off for Cachora).
3. From the Ramal stop on the highway, you have a few options:
   • Walk down the dirt road to Cachora town (takes 1.5 to 2 hours, it’s downhill).
   • Grab a taxi. Be ready to haggle a bit – sometimes taxi drivers charge tourists more. Agree on the price first. Shared taxis (colectivos) are usually cheaper (like 7 soles to Cachora).
   • Taxis can take you beyond Cachora to the very end of the road at Capuliyoc, where the trail starts.
4. If you’ve booked a tour from Cusco, they’ll usually take you directly to Capuliyoc.

Right now, hiking is the only way to get to Choquequirao. There’s no road or train. Getting there is part of the adventure – chévere!

How to Get the Choquequirao Permit

You buy your entrance (permit) near the trailhead at Capuliyoc. They’ll check it again later as you get closer to the ruins. Good news: unlike the popular Inca Trail, you don’t need to book months in advance. It’s not nearly as crowded.

• Adults: S/. 60 (about $15 USD)
• University students (with ID): S/. 30
• Children: S/. 25

What’s the Best Time to Hike Choquequirao?

The best time is during the dry season, from May to November. Why?

• You usually get clearer skies, which means amazing views of the mountains and canyon.
• With less rain, the trail is safer. Heavy rains can cause mudslides or rockfalls in this deep canyon, so the dry season is generally better.

4-Day or 5-Day Trek?

Depends on your time and how you like to hike:

• 5-day trek: This is a more relaxed pace. You get more time to enjoy the views, and you can usually camp near the ruins to see the sunset or sunrise, which is pretty special.
• 4-day trek: It’s faster but tougher. You need to be in good shape and ready to push yourself, especially on day two, to reach the ruins and explore them before it gets dark. If you book the 4-day trek with a good agency, they often include an emergency horse in case things get too rough.

Can You Hike from Choquequirao to Machu Picchu?

Yes, there’s a trail that connects them! It goes through more valleys and over mountain passes. It’s an epic journey but takes much longer – at least 9 days in total. So if you have the extra time and want a serious adventure, linking Choquequirao with Machu Picchu is an option.

Some people wonder if you can do the trail in reverse, from Machu Picchu towards Choquequirao and ending in Cachora. It’s not common, and remember you’d be ending your long trek with a brutal climb of nearly 1,500m (5,000 feet) from the bottom of the canyon back up to Capuliyoc. Ouch.

Just a heads up: Whichever way you go, park staff will check your permits along the route.

What About Altitude on the Choquequirao Trek?

The highest you get is the Choquequirao site itself, around 10,000 feet / 3,050m. While that’s high, this trek is often more about the sheer physical challenge – the steep ups and downs – rather than altitude sickness compared to some other very high Cusco treks. That said, the altitude is still significant, so take it easy on your first day to acclimatize. The real killer is usually just the physical exhaustion from the climbs.

Oh, and bring mosquito repellent! Those little guys can be really annoying (pesados!) in the warmer parts of the canyon.

What’s the Weather Like There?

Choquequirao is in that kind of “cloud forest” zone on the edge of the Amazon. This means the weather can change quickly. Clouds often roll up from the deep canyon and can cover the ruins.

During the rainy season (December-March), you can get heavy downpours. Outside those months, if it rains, it usually passes relatively quickly.

Temperature-wise, the days are cool to mild, between 10°C and 20°C (50°F and 68°F). But the nights and early mornings, especially in the higher areas, can get chilly, dropping to around 5°C (41°F). Pack layers!

Where to Sleep? Hostels and Campsites

You basically have two options for overnight stays on the trek:

1. Camping: Bring your own tent and set it up at designated campsites like Capuliyoc, Chikiska, or Maranpata. It usually costs around 5 soles per tent per night. The campsite right by the Choquequirao ruins is often free (included with your entrance ticket). These spots are shared with other trekkers and tour groups. Facilities are basic: cold showers (if available) and shared toilets. Not all sites guarantee running water.
2. Simple Hospedajes: In Capuliyoc, Chikiska, and Maranpata, there are usually a few small, family-run guesthouses offering basic rooms. These can be a good option if you don’t want to camp or if the weather turns bad. It’s a good idea to book ahead if possible, especially during the busy season.

Those Cool Llama Designs

Back in 2004, when archaeologists were mapping Choquequirao, they cleared some bushes from a set of agricultural terraces and found something amazing. Built into the stone walls were these figures of llamas, made from white quartzite rocks. There are about 24 of them, arranged as if they’re walking up the terraces towards the main plaza. Experts think it’s a unique masterpiece of Inca art and engineering. Definitely a highlight!

What’s the Trail Actually Like?

The Choquequirao trail isn’t paved. It’s mostly a dirt path, sometimes rocky, sometimes with stone steps laid by the Incas. It’s generally firm underfoot unless there’s been a lot of rain, in which case it can get muddy or slippery.

• Footwear: Sturdy hiking boots with good ankle support are definitely better than trail runners, given the rough terrain and steep slopes.
• The Real Challenge: The incline. You go down into the canyon, then back up, then down again, then back up. It’s relentless.
• Hiking Poles: Seriously, bring them. Or rent them. They make a huge difference on both the steep climbs and the knee-jarring descents. Your legs will thank you! Worth it!

What’s the Deal with the Choquequirao Cable Car?

Ah, the cable car. People have been talking about building one across the Apurímac canyon to Choquequirao for years (since 2011). It would be one of the longest and deepest cable cars in the world if it ever happens. But honestly? As of now, it’s still mostly just rumors and plans. No actual construction has started. There’s talk of it potentially starting in the future, with big investment numbers being thrown around.

• The Upside: For now, hiking is the only way in. Which is kind of special, right? It means you get to experience Choquequirao in its wild, natural state before the crowds potentially arrive by cable car someday. So if you want that rugged adventure, go now!

How Was Choquequirao Rediscovered?

After the Incas abandoned it, Choquequirao was swallowed by the jungle. The Spanish conquistadors never seemed to find it, or maybe they didn’t even know it existed. It became a “lost city” for centuries, although locals in towns like Cachora always knew there were ruins across the canyon.

Unfortunately, some early explorers who did reach it in colonial times seem to have looted the site.

It wasn’t until 1909 that Hiram Bingham (the American professor famous for bringing Machu Picchu to the world’s attention) visited Choquequirao, guided by locals. He documented what he saw, including evidence of looting, and wrote about it for magazines back home. This brought it to the attention of the wider world, at least among archaeologists.

Excavations and clearing work didn’t really start in earnest until the 1970s, with more significant work in 2004 (when the llamas were found!). And they’re still uncovering more even today, as much of the site remains hidden. The Peruvian government has big plans to make Choquequirao a major tourist destination, hoping it will take some of the pressure off Machu Picchu. But for now, it’s still a much quieter and more off-the-beaten-path experience.

Can You Take Kids to Choquequirao?

Taking kids on this trek is a big undertaking. It’s really tough, both physically and mentally. Whether it’s suitable depends on the individual child – their age, previous hiking experience, fitness level, and attitude.

Even the shorter Inca Trail to Machu Picchu would be a real challenge for most children.

• Things to consider: One option might be to hire horses for them to ride during the steeper parts. Acclimatizing to the altitude before you start is crucial for everyone, especially kids. Packing light is also really important. Ultimately, it’s something you need to research and carefully consider based on your own children.

Can You Hike Choquequirao Alone?

Yes, you can hike to Choquequirao on your own. Unlike the classic Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, where you must go with a guide, independent trekking is allowed here.

The trail is generally well-defined, so it’s unlikely you’ll get lost unless visibility is extremely poor. There are also usually other trekkers around, especially during the main hiking season.

• But be honest: before setting off solo, think about your fitness level, your experience with multi-day hikes in remote areas, and how prepared you are to handle weather changes and the sheer physical demand. It’s doable solo, but it requires good preparation and self-awareness.

Do I Need to Rent a Mule? Where Can I Get One?

If you’re trekking independently (not with a full tour package), renting a mule and a muleteer is a really good idea, especially to carry your main pack (food, tent, sleeping bag, etc.).

Think about whether you really want to carry a heavy backpack up and down those incredibly steep slopes for 4 or 5 days. A mule makes it much more manageable.

• How to rent: You can usually arrange this in Cachora town or sometimes at the very start of the trail in Capuliyoc. Locals often offer this service, and it’s a key source of income for them.
• Packing: Even with a mule, try to pack light. You can buy some basic meals and snacks at campsites like Chikiska or Maranpata, so you don’t need to carry all your food for the entire trip.

Where to Sleep and What Facilities Are There?

We’ve touched on this a bit already, but to recap:

• Camping: Most nights you’ll be camping. There are designated spots (some free like at the base of Choquequirao, others you pay around S/. 5 per tent). These are shared areas.
• Facilities: Basic. Cold showers (if available), toilets. Sometimes there’s running water to wash, but it’s not always guaranteed.
• Hospedajes: Some places like Maranpata and Capuliyoc have simple rooms available if you prefer not to camp or need a backup plan. Don’t expect luxury!

Are There Any Shops on the Trail?

Yes, at the main campsites like Chikiska and Maranpata, there are usually small tienditas (little shops). They sell essentials like bottled water, sodas, Gatorade, maybe some basic biscuits or snacks. Some locals also have simple kitchens where you can buy cooked meals (like soup, rice dishes). Don’t expect a huge selection, but you can definitely restock on basic drinks and get a hot meal sometimes.

Can I Find a Guide in Cachora Last Minute?

Probably. If you arrive in Cachora the day before you plan to start hiking and you need a guide or just a muleteer, ask at your hostel or the local restaurants. They’ll likely know someone. Many men in the area work in tourism this way; it’s how they “buscar la vida” (make a living).

You can usually agree on a price and arrange to meet the next morning.

• Just a heads up: Cachora isn’t like Cusco, where there are dozens of official agencies on every street. Finding someone in Cachora is more informal. Also, if you need to rent gear (like tents, sleeping bags), it’s generally better and easier to do that in Cusco before you head to Cachora.